Things to Do in Marshall Islands in May

The water clarity in the lagoon rebounds in May, turning from milky green back to that impossible aquamarine. You'll see parrotfish grazing on the coral heads with an audible crunching sound, and the occasional blacktip reef shark gliding through the channels. The water temperature hovers around 84°F (29°C) - warm enough that you won't need more than a rash guard. This is the month when local guides start venturing back to the more exposed outer reef sites, like the passages near Calalin Island, where the current brings in bigger pelagics.

The returning trade winds make this the absolute best time to experience the Marshall Islands as they were meant to be traveled - by sail. The slap of the outrigger against the waves, the smell of salt spray, and the feel of weathered pandanus rope in your hands is a direct link to the navigational heritage here. Local sailing clubs often have community sails in May, when the weather is predictable enough for a half-day journey but still carries a decent breeze. You'll learn to read the wave patterns and cloud formations, skills passed down for generations.

The drier ground and slightly lower humidity make exploring the overgrown concrete bunkers and rusting artillery pieces on Kwajalein more manageable. The scent of damp earth and decaying metal hangs in the air under the canopy of ironwood trees. May happens to be when the US Army garrison allows slightly more civilian access to certain historical areas, before the stricter summer protocols kick in. You need special permission, but it's easier to obtain this month. The silence at these sites, broken only by distant waves and bird calls, is profound.

The sea state between Majuro and Arno Atoll, about 15 km (9.3 miles) away, tends to settle into a manageable swell pattern in May. The crossing in a small fiberglass boat is bouncy but usually dry. Arno feels like a different world: quieter, with villages where the main sound is children laughing and the rhythmic pounding of breadfruit. You can visit a traditional canoe-building hut, smell the freshly carved breadfruit wood, and taste just-caught reef fish grilled over coconut husks. The return trip at sunset, with the sky streaked orange and purple, is worth the day trip alone.